Yeonwhari

BUSAN, South Korea -- Few things change the experience of living in Korea as greatly as acquiring a motorbike, other than, perhaps, learning the language or developing a love/aversion to soju.

A few hundred thousand won will get you a homely, but functional bike handed down through generations of English teachers and adjashi delivery drivers. This will not be a sleek machine; it will not be the chromed out chopper of your middle-aged uncle or a fast, overly-decaled sports bike. However...